Seems there is no other choice, or better choice in this 8000m level mountaineering boots. Best to paired with Grivel G12 New Matic Crampon and Blackdiamond clip crampon on NON-technique route. choose a narrow bail system(petzl but not grivel) for tech route.
"Love the boot, Order 1.5-2 sizes larger"
I wear a size 45 in La Sportiva Nepal Evo and ordered a 46 in the Olympus Mons. The length seemed okay, but the width was a bit tight. The boots aren't much heavier than the Evos. Can't wait to get my new size and head out to check off a few more 14K peaks in CO.
These boots have been Denali tested and proven. On summit day we had 35+ winds making our windchill temp -50F. A few of our team members said they had cold feet....mine were toasty and dry. After the "Death March" to base camp the next day, I was the only one in our group without blisters. The boots will definitely be traveling next Spring to the Himalayas. Best boots! At the end of the day, what are your toes and feet worth?
I saw two guys break the lace up system on Denali last summer. Both had pretty bad shin and toe bang at the end of the ordeal as well. Once you fart around with intuition liners, and over-boots for your doubles you are going to be in it for the same price, but you wont have to screw with your feet at every rest break either. In the end my impression was that I would not purchase a pair. You don't want to be at high altitude with beat up feet and busted laces.
"Probably the best mountaineering "Single Boot System" available."
These boots are designed for very cold weather, high altitude climbing. I got them to use on Denali and, hopefully, Everest. They're expensive, but so are frostbitten toes, so it's a good investment. With these boots, you don't need overboots or gaiters (they actually use Kevlar material on the sides). The lacing system on both the inner and outer boot is unique and superfast, as is the outer zipper - you'll leave your climbing buddies in the dust getting ready in the morning! The boots are suprisingly lightweight and comfortable.You'll want to get at least one full size (and mabybe 1-1/2 sizes) larger than your normal shoe size.
"Great high altitude mountaineering boot."
These boots are great, but just make sure your going into cold temperatures. I purchased these for an Aconcagua climb but wanted to break them in and get use to them prior to the trip. Took these bad boys up Mt. Baker and my feet have never sweated so much in my life. I could ring my socks out. Bottom line, your going to have warm feet. They are made stiff and in breaking them in, expect a little shin bang, it's a packaged deal. The only problem I have had with them thus far is one of the hooks on the booties broke. Good ole' moosejaw is taking care of me though and fixing the problem.
"my choice for high altitude mountaineering"
this may be the best big mountain boot ever made. i have not used the millet everest boot so i cannot make a true comparison but the la sportiva weighs half as much and at altitude this makes a huge difference. the lacing system is unique and in my opinion wonderful as it is easier with gloves and because it saves time.
The first choice boot wasn't avail in the size we required, Moosejaw offered us this boot as a replacement option. We weren't convinced at first but once it arrived we gave it a go. It worked out well for the conditions its was going to be used in and the insulation properties are well suit for the conditions of Antarctica.